Wednesday, December 4, 2019

Canada Usa Road Trip

Canada USA Road Trip

St Albert to St John's to Palm Springs
August 25 to Nov 6, 2019

Aug 25 - Aug 31
Bright and early in the morning, we said good bye to our home and headed east in the Z3.  We starting our big road trip.  The first week is going to be a marathon of driving cross country to Newfoundland.  We have to be at the ferry in Sydney, NS, on Friday afternoon.

We didn't stop for anything except meals and gasoline, putting in 10 hour days of driving.  Our route was to Regina, then over the border at Estevan and along highway 2. We crossed the border again at Saulte Ste. Marie and continued on, following the trans Canada highway.

We did make one tourist stop.  At 7:30 in the morning, we stopped to admire the giant nickel at Sudbury.
The Sudbury Nickle
We arrived in Cape Breton with time to spare, so took a walk down main street in Baddeck, NS, stopping for a bowl of chowder at the local bakery before heading on to the ferry.

Kerry had had the forethought to book a deluxe cabin for the 15 hour ferry ride.  Because of that, we arrived in Argentia refreshed.  We finished the last two hours and arrived at our airbnb at 11:11 am.  Our long drive was over.  To celebrate, we headed out to Cape Spear to enjoy the sunshine and heat at our favourite spot, the eastern-most point of North America.
Cape Spear Lighthouse
When we returned to the house, Pat's sister, Joanne and her husband, Brian, had returned from their boat-ride so we were to begin our adventure together.

We gathered with the boys at Quadi Vidi Brewing Co to celebrate Alex's last day as a bachelor.  Tomorrow was the wedding.
Quidi Vidi Harbour, very picturesque.
Sunday, Sept 1
The wedding started at 1 pm at the Sheraton Hotel.  What a lovely ceremony.  The bridal couple had then arranged for a trolley ride ride around St John's before the reception at the Rocket Bakery.  Great food, wonderful visits with family and friends and the best band ever, we headed home about midnight.

Monday, Sept 2
After a family breakfast, we headed west on the trans-Canada highway to Goobies, with a stop in Dildo at the Dildo Brewing Co to taste their beer and see the squid coming close to shore.  We also made a stop at Vern's Classic Car Collection in Swift Current.  What a place. Sixty redone cars ranging from 1908 to the late 70s muscle cars.  All in pristine shape.  What a collection. 
What a collection!
Then on to the bride's family home for Newfie poutine, wings and cake. 
Tuesday, Sept 3
The weather has started to deteriorate.  The wind has come up, so our visit to Signal Hill is tough.  The wind blew so hard we almost got blown off the hill!  It was cold so we headed to the downtown for chowder and some shopping.  We also walked to the Terry Fox Mile 0 statue where he dipped his toe in the water before his run for cancer that ended at Thunder Bay because of his health.

Wednesday, Sept 4
Cloudy and cool, so we drove across the peninsula to Portugal Cove to catch the ferry across to Belle Island.  There, we toured the now-closed iron-ore mine.  What an amazing place.  The mine heads down underground at a steady slant down under the ocean.  Thousands of men, boys and horses toiled in the dark with candles, later acetylene lights and then battery packs to dig the iron ore and drag it to the surface.  The mine was open from the early 1900s to the 60s.  The island hosted 14,000 inhabitants at the mine's height.  During WWII, one of the iron-ore ships was torpedoed by a German Uboat and sunk.  We then drove around the island and found the lighthouse.  What a beautiful island.  We finished the trip with a visit to Dick's for the best fish and chips in the world before taking the ferry back.
This central corridor of the mine went on for miles under the Atlantic Ocean!
We decided to go to Cape Spear again because Jo and Brian had not been there, so off we go.  It was sunny at Portugal Cove, but became foggy and cold as we went down the hill to the Cape.  It was the end of the day so the buildings were closed, so we could only imagine what the bay looked like.

Sept 5/6/7
We were concerned about Hurricane Dorian, so we decided to head for Port aux Basques in one day and take the Friday ferry across.  The trip was uneventful and the ferry ride was smooth.  We stayed in Sydney the night. 

The next morning, Dorian was moving faster that earlier thought, so we decided to stay put.  We visited the second house built in Sydney, the Cossit House.  Built in 1785, it was the home of the first Anglican minister and his family.  The wind was blowing and the storm was starting to roll in, but got the grand tour by a very well informed historian.  He told us stories about the building of the house, the storing of food, the making of candles, the writing of letters and then the re-writing of letters in the letter ledger.  He also explained about samplers and the birthing of babies.  We sampled a local drink to hold off scurvy - a tea of spruce needles and molasses.  Interesting.  That is all I will say.

The rain started about 5 pm and the wind blew hard.  We watched Bianca Andrescu defeat Serena Williams at the US Open Ladies Final match before the power went out about 11.  We slept like babies and woke up early to no rain, but wind. 

Sunday, Sept 8
The power was out all over Nova Scotia, so we had a cold breakfast and then headed out.  It was difficult to find fuel in some parts - gas stations and businesses were closed.  We found fuel in Truro where the power was on.  Then we headed to the Confederation Bridge and Prince Edward Island.  We stopped to visit dear friends in Summerside and then headed to Charlottetown to our next airbnb.

Dorian made herself felt in Summerside.  The eye of the storm went over the city and so there were many, many big trees that were uprooted or broken.  Shingles were missing from several houses.  We didn't see any damaged houses, but we did see a couple of vehicles with branches on them.  The residents were busy cleaning up.  Power was working, but sporadically.

At lunch in Summerside, we had the best bread pudding and caramel sauce ever.  It was so good we took one to go for dessert that night with Jo and Brian.

Monday, Sept 9
The power is still out on most of the island, but Charlottetown is electrified.  We headed to Cavendish to see Green Gables.  The first stop was Lucy Maud Montgomery's plot in the cemetery.  Then on the Green Gables, just around the corner.  It was closed.  So we drove down the coast and spent time on the beaches admiring the red water.  It was really churned up.  We bought potatoes and wild blueberries form a roadside stand and then headed home.  After groceries, we drove down to Water Street to visit the "Anne" souvenir shops and Cows ice cream shop.  A stop at the Gahan Brewery for a drink, then home after a great day.
The storm churned the water up so much the waves were red!
Tuesday, Sept 10
Everything is almost back to normal in the business and tourist life of PEI today.  So we finally were able to tour Green Gables and explore the life of Lucy Maud Montgomery in the new Green Gables visitor centre.  Then it was back to the house for an early supper of mussels, clams and fried fish.  A perfect end to our time on the Emerald Isle.
Patti in front of 'Green Gables".
Wednesday, Sept 11
The rain is pouring down.  A good day for traveling to Halifax.  Once there, we braved the rush-hour traffic and headed to the wharf area to eat lobster rolls at Dave's and tour the shops.  We ended up at the Garrison Brew Pub - the oldest in Halifax.

Thursday, Sept 12
Our first stop was The Citadel.  It was started in 1749, it is a fort that was meant to protect the land while other fortifications guarded the harbour.  Built in a star shape, t was never breached.  We saw a rifle demonstration and listened to a bagpipe concert before the noon gun was fired.

Second stop was back on the pier for seafood chowder and then a visit to the National Immigration museum on Pier 21.  This was the first steps on Canadian soil for many immigrants from the early 20s to the 70s when airports took over.

Friday, Sept 13
We drove outside the city today to Lunenburg, Mahone Bay, and Peggy's cove.

Lunenburg was founded in 1751, and maintains its historical architecture in the  waterfront area.  Several of its wharf warehouses are painted bright red, which was a unique identifier from the water.  Many of the old Victorian houses have a special door that is unique to Lunenburg.  The door is flanked by half bay windows on either side that continue up to the window above, framing a small tower.  This allowed in lots of light and gave a bit of room at the entrance.

Dock Area
This how they get light into a house in Lunenburg.
The Bluenose II was in dock, but Friday was its maintenance day, so we were unable to take a ride.

We then drove the few miles around the headland to Mahone Bay, famous for its three churches along the bay, and Amos Pewter, my favourite pewter store in the world.  The sun was shining, so we ate our picnic lunch by the water before exploring the town on foot.  At Amos Pewter, we were treated to a demonstration of how they make their molds for the annual Christmas ornament, and then how they pour them and buff them up for sale.  Another lady was sanding and finishing vases that had been made on a lathe from flat disks of pewter, in the same way a clay pot is thrown.  She was sanding with steel wool. 

Finally, we drove over to Peggy's Cove, with a slight detour to the SwissAir memorial.  Te memorial is very simple, but is truly a hushed, special place.

Peggy's Cove is one of the most beautiful spots in Canada.  The lighthouse is built on the rocks, so you can explore the headland easily; but look out for those rogue waves.  They can take you in an instant!  The fishing village has long since turned into a tourist place, but the brightly coloured homes make one feel happy and cheerful.  Apparently, during the hurricane, the waves were up almost over the top of the lighthouse.  That would have been amazing to see.
Peggy's Cove Lighthouse

Peggy's Cove is a very picturesque place.
Saturday, Sept 14
Joanne and Brian flew home today, in time for the Rider game.  Kerry and I packed up and drove to Edgett's Landing, along the coast of Cape Hopewell.   We stayed in a small cabin in the woods and enjoyed the quiet during the evening and night.  By day, the road in front is busy because it is the access to Hopewell Rocks.

Sunday, Sept 15
We are off to Hopewell Rocks.  We have been to them before, so we're not as concerned about low tide times.  We did get there in time to see them at low tide, but didn't have time to wander among them.  Instead, we continued on to Riverview, a small town down the coast towards Alma to see the horse pull competition.  What an amazing event.  All the while I could see the pioneer men pulling stumps with their team of giant horses, as the different teams competed.  They were pulling 9000 lbs when we left, we needed to get back to the cabin before dark.
High tide
Low tide
Monday, Sept 16
Today we stopped at Hopewell Rocks to see them at high tide.  The water goes up to the carved out area on the rocks.  We were told that at a really high tide, the water can cover Lover's Arch at the top!  We then drove over to Alma to have a snack of cinnamon buns and cookies form the bakery.  What a difference.  The last time we were in Alma was in the summer.  It was a bustling, noisy town full of people and cars.  Today, it was cool and deserted.

Tuesday, Sept 17
We are on the move again today to St Stephen, near the Canada/USA border.  We are staying in a small cabin on the shore of the bay.  To our right, across the arm is Maine.  To our left is New Brunswick.  We can sit on the screened in veranda and watch the tide go in and out and enjoy the change in scenery as the rocks come and go from the shore and the bay.

Wednesday, Sept 18
The warm sunshine and the need to send home a couple of boxes, took us to St Stephen. What luck - the Ganong Chocolate museum was situated beside the post office.  And, they gave out samples!!  It is amazing how innovative the company was. We indulged in the hand-dipped chocolates as a treat. 

Thursday, Sept 19
Today, we headed to St Andrews to enjoy the historic resort town.  The sun was shining, the tour busses were steadily driving in to town and the whale-watching ships were heading out regularly - full of passengers.  Unable to book a spot today, we will go tomorrow before we head south.
St. Andrew's pier
Boats on a platform beside the pier.
Friday, Sept 20
We were due at the St Andrews' harbour early in the morning.  We headed out in the tall ship with 12 others to watch for whales.  We were lucky and found 7 separate minke whales feeding around the small islands.  We also saw a dolphin and a couple of bald eagles.
One of the minke whales we were lucky enough to see.
When done, we were on the road to Bar Harbor Maine.

We were able to arrive early enough to go downtown in Bar Harbor and walk the shore walk with the ocean on the left and small mansions or "cottages" and large hotels on the right.  We stopped for the Bar Harbor version of the lobster roll and crab roll, with a bread pudding to finish.  Summerside bread pudding and Halifax Dave's Lobster shack do not need to worry.  They are far better.

Saturday, Sept 21
One of the main reasons Bar Harbor is so popular is Acadia National Park.  We drove the loop and stopped to enjoy the Thunder Hole - it really sounds like thunder as the water rushes into the cave below.  The shore is rugged and beautiful.  We then started our seven hour drive to Smuggler's Notch in northern Vermont.

Sunday, Sept 22
We started The day with a drive to Stowe, the village south of Smuggs.  There, we did a boat ride on the Waterbury Resevoir to enjoy the colours of the leaves on the hillsides of the valley.  We are a bit early for the deep colour in all of the trees, but the colour is also two weeks earlier than usual, so we are happy.  The reds are magnificent.  There is pink, red, fluorescent red and deep red.  Some trees are half red and half green.  Some are red, orange and yellow.
The colours were just starting to appear.
The valley is also a craft beer Mecca, so Kerry was happy to celebrate the leaves with a stop at the Von Trapp Brewery.

The drive down to Stowe is so interesting.  The hills tower above while the road snakes down into the valley.  Big, big boulders had to be accommodated, so the road becomes really narrow or wide, depending on the distance between these boulders.  Combine that with heavy forest and lots of hiking trails, which means lots of parked cars, and the need to concentrate on the road, rather than nature.  Oh well, we will travel this road a couple of times, so we will be able to see most of it.

Monday, Sept 23
The clouds are low and the threat of rain is high, so we decided to visit the covered bridges in the area.  There are eight of them left in the area, all built in the 1880s.They use the arch truss system to support the roof.  Men built covered bridges so that they would last.  Because of the weather, uncovered wooden bridges would last about twenty years.  Covered wooden bridges would last 100 years.  They are romantic looking and ring of another century.
One of the many covered bridges in this area.
Tuesday, Sept 24
Another travel day. We are off to Newport, Rhode Island on the coast.

The drive was interesting.  We passed through Vermont, New Hampshire, Massachusetts, and then Rhode Island.  We drove through Boston on the interstate, so had the traffic, but none of the sights.  Our apartment is right on the harbour, with a beautiful view of the harbour and all of the boats coming and going.  This includes many, many sailboats and at least two cruise ships per day.

After groceries, we headed up to the roof terrace to watch the sunset.  We shared it with a lady who is a local.  She was wonderful, with lots of advice on what to see and do.
What a GREAT location to watch the sunset!
Wednesday, Sept 25
We started the tour with a drive on the Ocean drive.  It starts with Fort Adam and the Eisenhower Summer White House. 

The Eisenhower House has an amazing view of the other side of the harbour entrance. 

We then continued on to Brenton Point State Park.  This park is perfect for watching the waves crash in and out, fly a kite, and reflect on the accomplishments of Portuguese navigators and sailors.

Continuing on the drive, we passed several mansions, or summer cottages as they are called here.  We also passed two private beaches before driving by the mansions on Bellevue Avenue to finish the drive.

We roamed the shops around the harbour for the afternoon.

Just off the harbour area is the first Anglican Church in Newport.  Trinity Episcopalian Church was built in 1725/26, 27 years after the congregation formed in 1698.  Designed in a similar way to Christopher Wren's church in London and the Old North Church in Boston, it still has the pulpit in the centre of the church, in front of the altar.  There are no rows of pews.  Instead, there are three columns of family boxes.  Each is furnished uniquely by families in the congregation.  There is lots of velvet, brocade, with the odd Chippendale-like chair or couch instead of benches.  Each pew is closed off, so others can't see what is going on below the pony walls.  The church survived battles during the War of Independence by functioning as a British hospital.  Famous families who attended this church are the Astors, the Vanderbilts, etc.  (You get the idea).

Thursday, Sept 26
We visited the oldest Jewish Synagogue in the United Sates - Touro Synagogue.  Built in 1763. It was designed on a colonial style.  Twelve columns support the women's balconies and represent the 12 tribes of Israel.  Each column is carved from a single tree.  Balance and symmetry are the main parts of the design that encourage peace and serenity.  George Washington visited the Synagogue in 1790.  The Warden then sent him a letter supporting him as the President and asking for tolerance in return.  George replied with a letter that is read every year in the Synagogue.  His reply is as relevant today for all people as it was then.
Touro Synagogue

here is an excerpt:
        "...for, happily, the Government of the United States, which gives to bigotry no sanction, to persecution no assistance, requires only that they who live under its protection should demean themselves as good citizens in giving it on all occasions their effectual support..." (George Washngton Letter to the Hebrew Congregation of Newport, www.tourosynagogue,org).
We walked the Newport Cliff Walk in the afternoon.  This 3.5 mile walk is along the cost and goes by several of the largest mansions in Newport - The Breakers (Cornelius Vanderbilt II ,1895), Marble House (Mr. & Mrs. William Vanderbilt, 1892), Rosecliff (Theresa Fair Oelrichs, 1902), Ochre Court (Ogden Goelet, now Salve Regina University).

Friday, Sept 27
This is a travel day to north western Massachusetts - the Berkshires.

Saturday, Sept 28
I had one definite goal on this trip - to visit the Bennington Museum and see the Jane A. Stickle quilt first hand.  Today was the day. 

Let me give you some information.  Jane Stickle was an invalid lady who had time on her hands because her husband was away, fighting in the Civil War.  She designed and sewed 169 separate, unique 5" blocks.  Some of them were based on traditional blocks, but most (70% of them) are unique designs by Jane.  Each is a two colour block - white and another.  The blocks are arranged in "around the world" style based on the colours with a green centre block.  Some of the pieces are 1/4 inch big.  It has a triangle border.  Again each triangle is unique.  Jane entered her quilt in the 1863 Bennington Agricultural Fair and won a prize for the best pieced quilt.  As you can see, I love this quilt and will one day show everyone my version.  (It will be red and white!)
Dear Jane quilt
The museum was a pleasant surprise after we examined THE quilt.  It houses an extensive collection of Grandma Moses pictures, plus examples of Bennington pottery, locally crafted furniture, and examples of everyday life over the years.
Pumpkins
The next stop was the Red Barn for their famous cider mini donuts.  Delish!

Sunday, Sept 29
Mount Greylock is down the road from our resort.  It is the tallest peak in Massachusetts and commands a view of four states (Vermont, New York, Connecticut and Massachusetts.  The drive up is so beautiful - a tunnel of trees, now turning different colours.  At the top is the Massachusetts War Memorial, a 90 foot tower.

For the afternoon, we visited a Quaker Meeting House, built in 1982, and then rode the Berkshire Scenic Railway.  A great way to spend a Sunday.

Unfortunately, we had to miss the Susan B. Anthony birthplace, abolitionist and suffragette.

Monday, Sept 30
We spent the morning at the Norman Rockwell Museum.  He moved to the area to get treatment for his wife.  Norman lived here until his death.  We saw every Saturday Evening Post cover Rockwell painted (330?), plus many of his other paintings.  We each picked our favourite -Kerry loves "The Runaway", and for me there too many others to pick just one.
'The Runaway'
We went over to Main Street in Stockbridge to see the actual buildings he painted in the Christmas picture.  It would be very interesting to see the recreation of the picture on the first Sunday in December.  The town closes the block and brings in the cars, etc.  Talk about art imitating life and life imitating art!

We finished the day with a tour of Arrowhead, a house owned by Herman Melville, author of Moby Dick.  His friend, Henry David Thoreau, used to visit often, so there are lots of connections to American literature.  The interesting thing about Melville, is that his book was not popular while he was alive.

Tuesday, Oct 1
It is raining, so we are on the move again to the Poconos.

Wednesday Oct 2
The rain caught up to us, so we are laying low.

Thursday, Oct 3
Still raining, but really hard.  Leaves are falling like crazy.

Friday, Oct 4
Today is a driving day.  We are on our way to Atlantic City.

The sun is shining as we arrive, so we checked in and headed to the Boardwalk to have a philly cheesesteak sandwich and see the sights.  It is a cold wind, so the walk will be short.

Saturday, Oct 5
Today is Philly Day!  We took the train to Philadelphia and when we walked out of the metro station, we were 350 m from the historic centre of the city.  So easy!
Our first stop was the Independence National Historic Park Visitor's Centre to see if anyone had changed their mind regarding visiting Independence Hall.  You see, they have lots of tours in a day, but you must get the free tickets in advance.  The tickets were all sold out for today - but, voila!  The Parks personnel found us two tickets for the 1:00 pm tour.
Independence Hall from the outside.
Independence Hall from the inside.
Independence Hall.  It started out as the State of Pennsylvania's House of Government and Judiciary.  Its history goes as follows -

After the French and Indian War ended in 1763, the colonials were starting to become disgruntled.  Fighting started in different states, so representatives from the thirteen colonies met together at the first Continental Congress in 1775.  It was at this time that a letter was sent to the King listing their grievances.  The King ignored this, so a second Congress was held in Philadelphia at the State House in 1775.  It was during this meeting that the Declaration Of Independence was written and issued on July 4, 1776.

The Second Congress continued to meet during the war and after.  The Constitution was finally written and signed on September 17, 1787.  It was ratified by the colonies on March 4, 1789.

So, while we walked in Independence Hall, we walked over the same floor boards as George Washington, Thomas Jefferson, James Maddison, Benjamin Franklin, and others.

Our next stop was the Liberty Bell.  Forged in 1752, it rang in the belfry of the Pennsylvania State Hall for all announcements.  It was too brittle, and developed cracks.  It was repaired twice, but the cracks kept returning.  The bell probably rang on July 8, 1776, but became a symbol after a story was written about an old man and his hope for independence.  In the story, the bell rang to announce the declaration, and people began to associate the two things.  The Bell was toured around the country for many years, and the crack continued to get bigger.  People would gather the pieces from the crack and make souvenirs of them.  Starting in 1837, Abolitionists saw the slogan on the bell, "Proclaim Liberty throughout all the land unto all the inhabitants thereof", as a great motto for their work towards the end of slavery.  After the Civil War, people wanted symbols of unity.  The American Flag and the Liberty Bell became those symbols.  Today, the Bell is tapped thirteen times on July 4, and it is tapped once on Martin Luther King's birthday.
Liberty Bell
Monday, Oct 7
Today is a driving day to Washington, DC.  We are staying in Alexandria, VA.

Wednesday, Oct 9
We headed to the Mall in the Capitol area of DC today.  It is a 2 mile long park with museums and memorials along the length of it.  At the one end is the Capitol Building, and at the other end is the Lincoln memorial with the reflecting pool in front of it.  In the middle is the Washington Monument, flanked on the one side with the White House, and on the other with the Jefferson Memorial.
Capital Building
Washington Monument
White House
Thursday, Oct 10
Today is a driving day.  We are heading south and west into the Great Smokey Mountains, and staying in Sevierville, TN.  We are excited, because our friends, Peter and Sandi, are joining us for the next nine days.

Friday, Oct 11
The day was sunny and hot (85F), so it was Dollywood day.

The theme park. Has a section that was dedicated to Dolly Parton, with her first tour bus, a museum, and theatre where her career was highlighted in her songs.  It was excellent.

We wandered most of the park, and did the train ride, after a scrumptious dinner of barbecue.  The end of the evening was a walk through the Pumpkins and lights display in the dark.  A giant spider made of pumpkins, trees with lights hanging down so it looks like a scene from "Frozen", pumpkins carved with vats, cats, rats, fish, a giant tree made from pumpkins and lights, and so on.  It was amazing!

Saturday, Oct 12
We headed to Gatlinburg and the Great Smokey National Park to o a hike.  The traffic was gridlocked, so it took a long time to drive the 20 miles.  The hike was up a mountain to a waterfall through the woods.  Spectacular.
Smokey Mountains
Sunday, Oct 13
Today is a driving day to Nashville.

Monday, Oct 14
Happy Thanksgiving!  We spent the afternoon in Tootie's Bar listening to music and drinking beer.  People were friendly, the beer was cold and the music was really good.  They played "The Devil Went Down to Georgia", "Jolene", "Sweet Caroline" and other great oldies.  We wandered the rest of the Broadway area, listening to music in other bars before heading home.

Tuesday, Oct 15
We are on the Old Town Trolley today.  This is a multi-stop route that gave us a great tour of Nashville, before we toured the Country Music Hall of Fame.  That museum is very well done.

We stopped at Kid Rock's bar for. Drink and lunch and some music, before making a quick stop at Ole Red, Blake Shelton's bar, and then it was back to Tootsie's.  You just can't beat the atmosphere of that famous honky tonk!
Tootsie's, we had such a GREAT time here!
We attend the Grand Ole Opry in the evening.  Henry Cho was the only headliner when Sandi bought the tickets.  Tonight, we listened to seven groups all together - Ricky Scaggs, King Calaway, playing "Take it Easy" better than the Eagles.  The last performer was the Charlie Daniels band.  He finished his set with "The Devil Went Down to Georgia".  Words cannot describe how good it was.  The chills were still running down our spines an hour later.

Wednesday, October 16
This is a driving day to Branson, Missouri.

Friday, Oct 18
Branson is a family entertainment area located in a valley.  We toured the Missouri trout hatchery and saw thousands of fish growing in the ponds.  They will be moved into lakes and streams as they reach twelve inches.
Rainbow trout in the hatchery.
Saturday, Oct 19
This is a driving day to the Grand Lake, Oklahoma, a few miles from Tulsa.  The lake is a Reservoir, and we stayed in the Wyndham on Monkey Island.

Monday, Oct 21
This is a driving day to Amarillo, Texas.

Tuesday, Oct 22
This is a driving day to Taos, New Mexico.  We hugged many mountain sides as we ravelled up.  At one point, we were at 9,500 ft above sea level.  The town of Taos is at 7,900 ft above sea level.

We arrived to a lovely surprise.  The lobby of the Wyndham property is very grand and is decorated in south western style.  We walked the stores around our apartment today.

Wednesday, Oct 23
The forecast is for 5 cm of snow in Taos tomorrow, so we are seeing the sights and then heading south to avoid snow and high mountain passes.

Our first stop was the Taos Pueblo.  Declared a National Monument and a Living World Heritage Site, it has been lived in for over a thousand years.  We did a tour with a guide that started at the Saint Geronimo Catholic Church.  Built in the 1800s, it is adobe with a small courtyard in the front, and an arch at its gate.
Saint Geronimo Catholic Church
We then toured the original St, Geronimo church, a predecessor, that was destroyed by American cavalry while 125 native peoples took refuge inside.  Today, it a sacred place and a cemetery.  We then saw a traditional bread oven.  Each house has their own.  Again, it is made of adobe.  Finally, we stopped at the stream which runs through the Pueblo.  It is the community's only source of water.  About ten families live inside the Pueblo today, and follow the living style of their grandparents.  They have no electricity, indoor plumbing, or running water.
Homes inside the Pueblo.
Our next stop was the Rio Grande River Gorge Bridge.  Built in the early 60s, it was awarded the National Dept. of Transportation award for the nicest long span bridge in 1966.  It has three arches, and is made of steel.  The Gorge is very deep and narrow at the bridge crossing.  Because of drought, the river was quite shallow.

Our final stop was the San Francisco de Assisi Catholic Church.  It is an Adobe church that is at least two hundred years old.  It is the most photographed and painted church in the area.  Artists like Georgia O'Keefe and Ansell Adams have featured this church in much of their work.  Each spring, the congregation gets together on a weekend and replasters the church so it always looks beautiful.
San Francisco de Assisi Catholic Church
Taos has been home to many famous people.  Among them are Georgia O'Keefe and Ansell Adams, as mentioned, as well as D.H.Lawrence, the author, and Kit Carson, the frontiersman.

We then left Taos and drove to Albuqurque, through Santa Fe.

Thursday, Oct 24
We are slowly heading to Page, AZ, so today we are driving to Farmington, NM.  On the way, we stopped at the Petroglyphs National Monument on the north side of Albuquerque.  Here, there are thousands of petroglyphs carved into the rocks, and they are easily seen on short, easy walks.
On example of a petroglyph in Petroglyphs National Monument

Friday, Oct 25
This is a driving day to Page, AZ.

Once there and checked into our hotel, we headed to Horseshoe Bend.  This is a sharp bend in the Colorado River, and we get to view it from the cliffs above, so we can see the bend clearly.  The cliffs are steep, just like the Grand Canyon down the road.  However, you will see people who like to sit in the out hanging rocks.  Scary for us.  There is no help if there is a misstep.
Horseshoe Bend, just outside Page.
Saturday, Oct 26
Today, we are doing the Upper Antelope Canyon walk.  The canyon is on Navajo land, so you must be on a tour.  That is great because the guides are camera experts and perfect picture-taking experts.  We slowly walked the quarter mile walk through the the canyon that starts out with a width of about 20 feet, but closes down to 3 feet across in many places.  Up is another story.  The walls tower above you, almost blocking out the light.  The walls have many colours, and the lines from the layers give the pictures a look of movement in a swirl.  The fluid lines of the walls have been created over the centuries by the flash floods that go through the canyon periodically. The name comes from the game the natives found hiding from the sun in the canyon.  This was the best two hours we have spent in a long time.  It is worth the crowds and the cost.
Amazing


Beautiful

Picturesque
Sunday, Oct 27
This is a driving day to Flagstaff, AZ.  We stopped at the Glen Canyon Dam. This dam stops water on the Colorado River and stores it in Lake Powell, creating a popular recreation area. The dam is quite interesting.  So is the view from the bridge to the dam on one side and the canyon on the other.  This is the canyon that spreads out a few miles away into the Grand Canyon.
Glen Canyon Dam
Monday, Oct 28
The day is cool and clear.  Some places got snow, but we are dry.  We drove up to the Grand Canyon and spent the day travelling from the South Rim to the East Rim, and then back to Flagstaff.

Grand Canyon
Some Canyon stats are:  it is an average of 10 miles wide, and is a mile deep.  It is also 277 miles long.  There is about a 20 degree difference in temperature from top to bottom.  The bottom is warmer. The east end is the Glen Canyon Dam, and on the west is the Hoover Dam and Lake Mead., forming the water supply for a lot of Arizona, Nevada and California.  Their power is also produced at the dams.

Tuesday, Oct 29
The wind is blowing strongly and the temperature is going down here in the mountains. Garnet and Jacqueline have come up to spend a few days with us. We have decided to leave early for Pheonix.

Wednesday, Oct 30
We decided to fill the day by going through the Pioneer Museum, just north of Phoenix.

The first building was about the history of the telephone.  Guided by a retired telephone company worker, he showed us the different inventions that led to telecommunications as it is today.  We spent some time at the switchboard as Jacquie explained how she connected calls in the late seventies at an Edmonton switchboard.  It was really interesting.

We then toured a house, smithy, barn and miner's cabin that we're all used when the area was developed.  I love seeing the mix of old ways and new that meld together to create life.

One of the unexpected treats of this park was a reenactment of Revolutionary war times.  People had come from all over to live the life of their character during that time.  They had the clothing, the tents and survival equipment of the time, the background of their character, and a working knowledge of the times, causes and effects.  We really enjoyed discussing the issues of the time, like why the Maritime provinces did not join the Declaration of Independence, economics of the time, and so on.  What an interesting hobby for these people.

Thursday, Oct 31
It feels so weird to be Halloween, and also be 30C.  Who knew some people actually wear costumes that fit without coats and trick or treat outside!

Saturday, Nov 2
It is another travel day.  We are headed to Palm Desert, CA: this is our last destination.  Where did the time go?

Being with our friend, Lynne, and catching up on her news will keep us busy until we fly home on November 6.  In the meantime, we will enjoy the hot weather.  (It is blizzard in at home.  Sigh).

 

Friday, October 5, 2018

France/Belgium 2018

France and Belgium 2018
Luxembourg & Germany Too

Tuesday/Wednesday, August 21/22
Peter picked us up at 2:15 am so that we could make our 5:30 am flight to Toronto, and then on to Paris, France.  Once on the ground, we took the train north-east to Lille and then on to Douai, a town in the Picardy area.  Ed met us at the Train station and then walked to the boat where we got settled in on Wandering Canuk Too (Ed's boat).  After a trip to the grocery store, Leclerc, we had supper and then went to bed.  We were exhausted.

Thursday. August 23
We decided that we needed to go on a field trip to Amiens today.  After getting to the train station, we found that we were unable to take the train due to a personal accident.  There was a car rental place across the street, so we adjusted our plan and drove to Amiens.

The main reason we decided to go to Amiens is the Cathedrale Notre-Dame.  Construction began on the Cathedrale in 1220. 
Amiens is the Cathedrale Notre-Dame.
It was originally built to house the head of St. John the Baptiste, which was brought back as a souvenir of The Crusades in 1206.  The church has survived two world wars, and a couple of renovations.  There are thousands of statues and reliefs adorning the entrances and columns inside.  We were unable to see the whole church because a film company was in the choir, but we did eventually see "The Weeping Angel", a small statue in the ambulatory.  This statue became the symbol for WWI.
"The Weeping Angel"
We then walked down to the St Leu quarter for lunch before then walking to the Jules Verne museum.  Jules moved to Amiens with his wife in the 1860s.  It was here that he penned his novels.  The museum is filled with a lot of his personal furniture and many publicity posters of his books, as well as several different copies of the books.  It was interesting.
Jules Verne's home
We then left Amiens and drove back to Duoai on the small roads, through Albert, Pozierres, Courcelette, and Bapaume.  These villages were in the middle of the Battle of the Somme in 1916, so there are many little cemeteries and memorials.

  The Church at Albert has a very high steeple, so became a landmark for the soldiers during the battles.

Tuesday, August 28
Over the past several days, we have floated the kilometres away down the canal.  We entered Belgium on Saturday, and have been enjoying the vistas.  The land has been quite flat with gentle rises and falls.  Those rises and falls mean that we get to go through a lock, or un ecluse.  The locks have been quite large, with one of them measuring 124m x 12.8m.  The rise was 5 m.  The largest rise in a lock was yesterday.  It's rise was 12.5m.  We have shared many of the locks with commercial barges, but the largest go in by themselves. 

Today, we also ascended the Ardennes Hills in a boat lift.  Making a rise of 78m, this was truly a modern engineering marvel.  The tub was long enough for us to rise with one of the largest barges.  The tub rises because the four, huge, cement counterweights descend.   The scale is very difficult to comprehend.
Strepy-Thieu boat lift

78 meter rise!!!!

Thursday, August 30
Yesterday was a hard day with lots of locks, rain, and a long day.  Today was much better.  The sun shone most of the day.  The countryside was very pleasant with very little industry, unlike yesterday where we saw only industry.


Abandoned factories along the canal.

We were blessed with the sighting of a beautiful old Abbey on the top of the hill with the small village below.  Called the Abbey of Floreffe, it founded in 1121.
Abbey of Floreffe, up on the hill.
We arrived in early afternoon at the joining of the Sambre River and the Meuse River at the city of Namur.  Namur is the Capitol city of the province of Wollonia, the province we have been travelling in throughout Belgium.  At the confluence of the two rivers lies an old citadel on the top of the hill.  The river bank is lined with old houses that show the wealth of the city over the last many years.

Friday, August 31
Namur is the Capitol city of Wollonia, the French-side province in Belgium.  On the top of the hill, looking over the joining of the two rivers, is a massive citadel.  It has been in service since medieval times, and has seen lots of action.  We wandered the place and enjoyed the views.
Bridge and Citadel in Mamur
Homes along the canal in Namur
Later, we headed back down the hill and across the river to the old part of town.  We were able to go inside one of the many churches to admire the statuary and the architecture.  We lunched on baguette sandwiches before heading back to the boat and heading on towards Dinant.

Saturday, September 1
We arrived in Dinant early in the day, so we had time to explore.
Dinant as seen from our mooring!
We had to cross the river so enjoyed looking at the saxophones placed along the way.  Dinant is home to Adolph Sax, inventor of the saxophone.
One of the many saxophones around the city.
After coming back down from the citadel, we investigated the museum dedicated to Adolph Sax, before heading back to the river to enjoy a beverage in one of the many small cafes.  Dinner was a bucket of mussels and a pot of fries.  Soooo good!

  The local cathedral was built eight centuries ago, and has been renovated several times.  The unique bulbous spire was very interesting.  We then took the last remaining cable car in Belgium up to the citadel on the top of the hill.  It, too, has seen a lot of action over the years, but the worst was on August 23, 1914, when it was overrun by the Germans, and the soldiers were slaughtered.
Dinant citadel at sunset.
Sunday, September 2
Our sighting of the day was the Castle and gardens of Le Chateau de Freyr.  Built in the Middle Ages, it burned down, but was rebuilt in its present glory in the 16th century.  The gardens were inspired by those of Versailles.  Three hundred year old orange trees and a 6 km maze are part of those extensive gardens.
Le Chateau de Freyr.
Monday, September 3
We have moved off of the large waterways, and are on smaller arms with unmanned locks.  When close enough, you push the button of the receiver and the locks starts to work.  We have enjoyed those very much.

We moored at the town of Foumay.  Here, we relaxed to the sound of a boules game being played across the sidewalk.  At 6 pm, a marching band started up, and they marched to the WWII Memorial where they remembered the town's liberation on this day in 1944.  The band, members of the police, fire department, and veterans all marched in the parade.
Fournay was liberated on September 3rd, 1944, these people are remembering that occasion.
  We supped on fresh chips and sausage before playing farkle with our boating neighbours, Diana and Chris, and Alex and Rita. 

Tuesday, September 4
After five locks and many kilometres of meandering, we arrived at the village of Laifour.  Here we moored to the sound of men hanging from ropes securing the side of a mountain face.  The village was very tiny with the church in the centre.  We wandered the town and ended at the cemetery.  Here, the graves were all covered with granite slabs and headstones.  They also each had granite memorial pictures that look like they were added each year as a memory.  We had our to hell with the bell toast.  Thank goodness we no longer need follow it.

The lights went out at the mooring about 10 pm, but we were already asleep.

Wednesday, September 5
We continued on to Charlesville Mezziers and moored in a lovely, new Marina. The basin of it was full of young people taking canoe and kayak lessons.  By supper, they were all gone and the area was quiet.  Our friend, Nick, arrived from Devizes, UK, and we enjoyed a night of visiting.

Thursday, September 6
We headed up the river to Pont a Bar, a small village that has a hire-boat operation to see if this is a possible mooring place for Ed for the winter.  Once there, Ed was gladly accepted.  So while he and Kerry dealt with paperwork, Nick and Pat went in search of bread.  At the bar, the woman sold us half of her Personal baguette.  Frites and the baguette made up our lunch with a bit of cheese on the side.  Lighter mood, with mooring now dealt with, we were able to head on towards Sedan and Verdun.

Once moored in Sedan, we discovered that we were beside a large agricultural fair.

Friday, September
With the big agricultural festival beside us, we decided the first thing to see in Sedan was the fair.  There were large bulls that were cleaned up to be shown. Cattle of every kind was on display.  We saw the largest in tractors, tractors with tines to harvest corn and anything else.  They had logging machines, small machines to cut lumber, they had a tent dedicated to educating the children and letting them see animals first hand.  We saw rabbits of every size and colour.  Chickens and roosters of every kind.  Vendors were selling their wine, their whiskey, their beer, their pastries, their bread, their honey and jam, their sausage and smoked meats.  In a separate ring there were chain saw sculpture demonstrations.  It was a blast!
Ardennes draft horse.
One of the chain saw sculptures.
After lunch, we walked over to the Chateau de Sedan, the largest fortified fortress in Europe.  The first part of the fortress was built in the 11th century.  As weapons changed and became stronger, following generations of the de Marque family enlarged the fortress by building around and over the previous battlements, until what it is today.  Inside, there were examples of medieval armour and wax figures showing us what life was like in the fortress.  We really enjoyed the visit.
One of the walls of the Chateau de Sedan
The route back to the boat was along a large street market.

We finished the day with a cheese fondue, cooked by Nick.  A great day.

Saturday, September 8
Nick left us today and returned home to the UK.  We headed over to the Fair to watch the Chain Saw  sculpture finals for all of France.  The small log challenge was in the morning, and the large log challenge was in the afternoon.  There were twelve competitors in all.  Watching them bring the logs to life, using chainsaws of varying sizes was mesmerizing.  We also walked over to the horse show area to see the big draft horses show their stuff.  With their manes braided, they looked their best as they strutted in the ring, showing off the amazing power they have in their legs and shoulders.

The Fair continues tomorrow, but we are heading out.

Sunday, September 9
The mornings are cool, now that it is September, but it warms up nicely in mid morning.  The canal is almost deserted because everyone but us retired people are back at work and in school.  The herons are out in abundance, and do the circle flight as we approach them, ending up behind us in the same spot on the river.  We see kingfishers periodically, but have been unable to capture one on film because they are so quick.

We moored at the village of Stenay, across the street from the tiny Port Cafe.  The cafe had live music this evening that we listened to from the boat.  His voice was like honey and the music was fantastic.


Monday, September 10
We are one day's travel from the city of Verdun.  This city and area were the centre of a big battle that lasted for two years, during WWI.  We are looking forward to learning more about Le Grande Guerre du Monde.

However, I thought I would tell you about daily life on the boat.  Kerry and I wake up every morning to the song "Classical Gas" at 8 am.  Ed has already been up for an hour so has already had several cups of coffee.  He makes Pat's coffee and has the table set and ready for toast from the latest loaf of bread or pain au chocolate from the local boulangerie.  We shower, dress and have breakfast after which Ed checks the engine, Pat does the kitchen cleanup, and Kerry fills the water tank, or takes down the fly deck canopy, or other tasks as needed.  We then head down or up the river, stopping for the occasional lock.
A lock on the Meuse!
  In France, unlike Britain, the locks are either automatic or a lock master does them for you.  For much of the trip, from Douai through Belgium, we were in commercial locks, so we were a tiny vehicle in a big space.  Sometimes we were with other, much bigger boats, sometimes we were by ourselves.  We must tie up, so Kerry has the bow and Pat has the stern.  Ed is usually driving the boat, and rescues Pat if she needs help (which is often).  Since we entered France again, we have been in locks where you press a radio-activator, and it starts the lock process.  These are smaller locks that will hold two pleasure boats.  There are no commercial boats in these locks.  Today, we have locks that are done by staff from the VNC or the government department responsible for the locks.  We mosey down the river, and they drive their little vans from lock to lock.  They are always ahead of us.  Lately, there have been fruit trees at some of the locks.  We have picked and enjoyed plums, apples and pears.  We usually do five or six locks a day.
Apples at one of the locks.
When the locks are done, all but the driver collapse on the benches and enjoy the life on the river as we go by.  We see cattle, sheep, fish, ducks, swans, geese, herons and kingfishers.  Sometimes we see fish, but more often we see fishermen.  We also see small villages with big churches
and houses of every style and width.  The odd time, we will see a really old church, like the one today from the 11th century, or a bunker from the Magineau Line of WWII.  The sun has been shining most days so we work on our tans.  About 11:00, Pat makes another coffee and we have a snack of fruit and cookies.  We then have a lunch on the move of sandwiches about 2:00 pm.  We try to moor about 4:00 at the latest.  That allows us to celebrate the day with a beverage and read for a while to relax form our busy day.  The villages are usually very quiet.
Mistletoe in a tree.
Pat cooks supper and then we either play a game, read, watch a movie, or go for a walk. 

What is for supper?  We keep it simple.   We have meat, fried potatoes and onions, and a vegetable and a salad.  The other night, our friend Nick, the gourmet cook, rigged up a fondue from a pot, a rack from the microwave, and an alcohol burner they found at the store.  We had a cheese fondue with bread cubes, fennel, apples and tomatoes.  Pat made ramekins of apple crisp from the apples at the lock and muesli we eat for breakfast.  All was great.  It is amazing what one can do with a frying pan, some bacon, onions and butter!

By now it is 9:30 pm , so we get ready for bed.  We are tired.

So that is our life on the boat.

Tuesday, September 11
We developed a major boat issue today, so we are on the side of the canal.  The boys are busy problem solving because a mechanic is unavailable to come and solve the problem.  They have come up with a possible solution.  We shall see.

Wednesday, September 12
We had only one lock to go through today, and we did it without incident.  The boy's solution is working. 

We arrived in Verdun in full sun and warm weather.  There are twelve boats who have been waiting for several weeks for the rest of the canal to open.  They claim that they will be allowed to go through on Friday.  We shall see.

The first sight we have of Verdun is the ramparts and the Porte Chausee.  This gatehouse served as the official entry to the city since the 14th century.

Once moored, we headed out to see some of the sights along the canal.  On the opposite side of the canal to us, there are several restaurants and bars that have seating on the terrace  along the canal.  Our side has housing only.
War Memorial in Verdun.
  The city has several memorials to battles over the years.  Just down from us is a beautiful sculpture in white called "War Memorial of the Citizens of Verdun Who Died in Both World Wars".  Erected in 1928, The statues represent the five arms of service of the French Army engaged in the Battle of Verdun in 1916 - (L to R) Calvary, engineer Sapper, infantry, artillery, and a reservist.  They form a wall symbolizing the motto of the city: "They will not pass."  That is exactly what happened in 1916.  They enemy did not pass through Verdun.  The city held on and was awarded several medals of honour from several different countries.

Just down from us, as well, is the Officer's Mess, which is now a four star hotel and restaurant.  In 1890, the population of Verdun was equally civilian and military personnel.  As noon comes, we hear the bells from the Cathedrale and Saint Nicolas' Chapel ring. 

It has become very hot, so we did several loads of laundry to dry in the heat.  It is supposed to rain tomorrow.  Ed did some waterproofing on the upper canvas while we went out looking for a boulangerie for bread, and the local Leclerc grocery store, or as our neighbours the kiwis said, the "Electric" store.  Found, we will go back tomorrow for groceries.

We spent the evening on the upper deck as much as possible so we could enjoy the mild weather.  It is busy at the restaurants nearby.  I guess it is too hot to cook inside.

Thursday, September 13
We are off this morning to the Underground Citadel or the Citadelle Souterrain.  Built in 1623 to guard against the Germans, it was carved out of the rock with several kilometres of tunnels for barracks, storage of munitions, hospital, etc.  We rode in self-driving cars through several tunnels as the life of soldiers in 1916 is portrayed.  We saw the hospital, fighting in the trenches and the selection of the unknown soldier for buried under the Arc de Triumph in Paris.  We also saw a depiction of the medal ceremony for the city of Verdun.  The tour was very well done. 

We then wandered up the hill to Notre Dame Cathedrale.  Built in the 5th century, it is dedicated to the Virgin Mary.  A statue of her with Jesus, both with a crown of gold, is located in the crypt chapel.  The church suffered bombardment in WWI because of its dominant position on the hill.  Pock marks still remain after one hundred year as a reminder of the conflict. 

Beside the Cathedrale is the Bishop's Palace.  Built in the 18th century, it was eased off during the French Revolution.  Used in various capacities over the years, it now houses the World Peace Centre.

On the way back we passed the Monument to Victory and to the Citizens of Verdun.  Inaugurated in 1929, it has 3 steps leading up to a commemorative crypt.  A Frankish Soldier leaned on his sword on top and gazes to the east.  It symbolizes the victory at the Battle of Verdun, the 1918 Armistice, and the rebuilding of the city.  Eighty-five percent of the city was destroyed in WWI.

Saturday, September 15
We are off back down the canal towards Sedan, Charlesville-Meziers and finally Pontabar, where Ed is mooring the boat for the winter.  We have seen all of this canal before, so we can now get better pictures or stop to visit something.  The locks are easier to do going downstream because we are above, and the water goes out of the lock so we are not fighting the swell. 

At Consenvoie, we moored for the night about 1:30 in the afternoon.  This gave us time to walk to to the German military cemetery from WWI.  The graves had been dug all around the area as temporary solutions until the fighting ended.  In 1920, the graves were all moved to this spot and then improved upon over the years.  There are over 11,000 graves here.  Some as early as a few days after the start of the war, one as close as the day before the Armistice, and many three or four months after.  We think the later deaths were injured men who died later.
Bad luck to die on the day of the armistice.
We stopped at the local auberge for a drink before heading back to the boat.

Sunday, September 16
Our young lady was waiting for us with the lock ready at 9:45 am, so we were off.  The sun is shining, the wind is minimal, and it is very quiet.  We chased a heron down the canal for a while.  It finally got tired of the game and flew into a field.  We saw a motorcycle group of twelve on the road, and that is the extent of activity this morning.
This Heron was in a picturesque spot!
We arrived in Stenay in good time.  We moored, had lunch, and then walked over to the European Beer Museum.  It was free today because of the Patrimonie Weekend.  All government buildings were open to visit, all museums were open and free.  We enjoyed the tour and a beer at the end in the tavern before heading back to the boat for dinner.

Monday, September 17
We are off again.  We continued on down he canal and said goodbye to our lock master and started the automatic locks again.  Several locks later, we arrived back in Sedan to an empty mooring and fields.  The opposite of what was here a week ago, we relaxed in the 26 degree heat.  Tomorrow we will continue on to Charlesville-Meziers.
The banks of the Meuse were covered in berries.

The Meuse also had hops growing along the bank mixed in with the berries.
Thursday, September 20
We are moored in Charleville until the 24th.  Yesterday was a boat work day.  Ed and Kerry did jobs on the boat, while Pat did the laundry.  Today, we have rented a car for the reminder of our time in France to see sights not on the Meuse Canal.

So, after picking up the little fiat 500 car, we headed south to Reims.  We are in the Champagne area, so most of the houses that produce the bubbly wine are in Reims.  We did not take time to stop and sample the wares - we will purchase a bottle another day and celebrate.  Instead, Kerry drove right into the heart of the city, and parked a stone's throw from the cathedral.

Called La Cathedrale Notre Dame, it has been the church where the Kings of France have come for their coronation from the 11th century until 1825.
La Cathedrale Notre Dame in Reims.
Joan of Arc attended the coronation of Charles VII in 1429. Built in the gothic style, it has gargoyles that are animals,
A gargoyle one the La Cathedrale Notre Dame in Reims.
flying buttresses supporting the outer walls, and lots of statues of angels.  There are also statues depicting kings of France and saints and apostles, as well as several forms of Jesus.  The best known angel statue that has come to represent the cathedral is called the smiling angel, and is located to the left of the left doors where one enters the church.
Angel at the entrance to the La Cathedrale Notre Dame in Reims.
The nave rises above and is higher than Chartres' cathedral.  During both the French Revolution and WWI, the many of the windows were destroyed.  Marc Chagall designed and had made three large windows in the apse or back of the church in one of the chapels.  Joan of Arc has her own chapel, and is depicted in a beautiful statue of her in her armour.

Tuesday, September 25
We are off to Metz today, and then to St Avold and Lelling.

After a two and a half hour drive, we arrived in downtown Metz, right near Cathedrale St. Etienne.  The current building was built in the 12 or 13th century.  It is Gothic in build, and dark inside.  Marc Chagall designed several windows for the north transept with the he theme of then and now in the Bible.  The towers are tall and stand above the city.  We then walked though a covered market before stopping for hot chocolate and cake in a nearby tea shop.  The cakes were divine.  We had a piece of a chocolate mouse layer cake and a  wedge of a Namur cake with puff pastry, custard with fruit mixed in it, topped with whip cream and almond slices.  Both, coupled with the semisweet chocolate, were worth the 20 euros.
Cathedrale St. Etienne in Metz.
Back in the car, we drove out of the old part of town, past the Porte des Allemands, and on to Saint Avold, a town close to the German border.  Why there?  In the early 60s, Kerry's father was sent to France with the Canadian Military to the base at Grostenquin, a few kilometres from Saint Avold.  The PMQs, or family housing, was located on the hill of the town in the Wenheck Quartiere.  Geoff was posted there for four years, and returned when President Charles deGaulle demanded that NATO leave France.  Now a property of the town, it has been renovated over the years and turned into housing.  Kerry was able to recognize the school he went to and maybe the quad of buildings with the field in the middle.  Now it is a soccer pitch.  In his day, it was a playground.  We then drove the 4 km to Lelling, a small village where the Coxen's lived for a year in a flat.  The town was basically one long street then that he had to walk down to catch the bus each day to school.  Dogs would chase he and a friend up a tree where they would await the bus and the driver who would chase off the dogs so they could get on the bus.  I don't know if the dogs waited until the end of the day to continue their fun or not.

We then drove the 250 kms back to Pont a Bar.  A great day filled with memories for Kerry.

Wednesday, September 26
We headed out again today to Bastogne, Belgium, and the site of the Battle of the Ardennes, as the Europeans know it, or the Battle of the Bulge, as the Americans know it.  Basically, in December of 1944, as the German army was being pushed back and France and Belgium were being liberated after Normandy, the Germans decided to make one last big fight in Bastogne, Belgium.  It was difficult for both sides, but the Allies through the Americans, won the day and liberated the area.  The museum is excellent.  It gives a comprehensive explanation of the war and its major offences.  It then goes into detail, giving the points of view of an American soldier, a German soldier, a Resistance fighter, and a civilian child.  A large American Memorial is also on the grounds of the museum.
American Memorial in Bastonge.

Larger than life statue of the famous photo from WWII.
Friday, September 28
These sat few days have been an example of best laid plans.  Today, we had decide to go and see the palace in Luxembourg.  Off we headed on a road that we are coming to know very well.  We arrived in the city, an headed down to the centre.  We got to a small street that we realize was only for pedestrians.  The looks we received as Kerry turned us around were incredulous.  The good news was that we got to see a glimpse of the palace with its guards in front before we headed out to find parking.  Alas, the only parking we could find was out in the arts area - a 35 minute walk into the palace.  Luxembourg is built on a series of plateaus and valleys, so the walking would not have been easy.  So, we re-evaluated the situation and decided to drive to Trier, Germany for bratwurst on a bun.  Forty minutes later, we were heading down into the bottom of the Moselle valley into the centre of the city.  Once parking was found, we wandered past a bigger than life statue of Karl Marx (he was born here) and then on to a large pedestrian street an square where we enjoyed a market of food items from France while eating our bratwurst in a bun with frites.  The bratwurst was delicious and just a Kerry remembered it from his youth!
Trier city center.
After finding some nougat to munch on, we headed over to the cathedral, Dom St Petrus.  What a spectacular sight!  The ceilings were decorated with blue paint and white relief carvings.  The statuary was amazing, and had been fixed up to look very new.  The cloister was beautiful, with graves of previous bishops buried there.
The cloister in cathedral, Dom St Petrus.
They have a relic of Jesus clothing in a special chapel.  Next to the cathedral was the Church of Our Lady, an older building, but quite modern in decoration.  One could sit in the pews and admire the stained glass in the apse and the coloured light as it fell against the stone.

We headed back to the square for a German beer before walking back to get a good look at the Porta de Nigra, an edifice from Roman times.  This city had been here for a long time.
Porta de Nigra built in Roman times.
Back on the road.  Our four country day (France, Belgium, Luxembourg an Germany) was over.

Saturday, September 29
This is our final day of touring.  We have the Ossuarie in Verdun and the 11th century Abby yet to see.  Off we headed to Verdun, making a quick stop at the market in Sedan to see the beer glass guy.  He was not there, so we're went on to plan b which was the LeClerc store (or as some Kiwi boaters said, "the electric store" to get a glass for Kerry.  We were successful, so on we went to the Ossuarie de Douamont, and the cemetery.  There are 130,000 bodies buried here.  This Ossuarie and monument are dedicated to the French soldiers who fought and died in the Battle of Verdun in WWII.  The Battle happened over the best part of 1916.  The Ossuarie contains the bone remains of thousands of bodies while others are buried in te cemetery.  A humbling tribute to peace.  Further own the road is a chapel dedicated to the village of Duoamont, a village that was totally destroyed in the Battle of Verdun.  It is one of nine villages that were totally destroyed by the end of the war.  The road signs and chapels have been set up to remind us of the civilian sacrifice of war.
Ossuarie in Verdun as seen from the cemetary.

Inside the Ossuarie in Verdun.
We then headed back to Mont Devant Sassey to see the 11th century Abbey.  Built by the great grandfather of Charlemagne, it is dedicated to one of his daughters, St Be??, who started the Abbey after their Abbey in Belgium ha been destroyed.  It is remarkably good shape, as it guards the village and the valley.  The bells were made by a family who lived in the village in the late 1800s, but, sadly, the family died of cholera.  The well at the Abbey was clean, so people were able to get water.
Inside the Abbey at Mont Devant Sassey.
Sadly, our time in France is almost over.  Tomorrow, we move the boat back to its mooring on the side of the canal and then take a train to Paris on Monday so we are ready to catch our flight early Tuesday morning.  We will miss the baguettes, the hazelnut chocolate pastries and the beer.  Au Revoir, or better yet - a bientot.  We will be back.